Denial and De Temples

Adam (the Hungarian guy at the train station) told me that he knew a nice guy who could take us on his boat for very little money. Misbah contacted Mohammed and indeed, on our second morning in Luxor, for 60 Egyptian Pounds (about $11), Mohammed took the three of us on a delightful and relaxing 2+ hour journey down the Nile with return to our hotel.

That afternoon and evening we joined Marco for a tour of the temple complexes at Luxor and Karnak.

Tombs, Groom and Service in the Room

Misbah, Kulsoon and I spent most of two days in Luxor together. Misbah knew Mohammed who introduced us to Marco, the very best tour guide in Luxor. Marco speaks English well, is patient, has a sense of humor and (after four years of Egyptian history in college) really knows his stuff. I would recommend him to anyone visiting Luxor.

Marco Faik Hanna, Tour Guide
Mobile: 002-012-9384185
marco_hanna2010@hotmail.com

Mohammed took us to the ferry so we could catch up with Marco's tour. First we toured Hatshepsut's Temple, then went inside tombs in the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens. It was fascinating, although we couldn't take pictures in either of the Valleys. It was also very hot.

Back at the hotel I got a pedicure and finally got my hair done. I explained to the hairdresser that he should just take a little off the length but most importantly, I wanted my hair "shaped." He took about 1/2" off all around. I motioned with my hands that I wanted my hair to be smaller. He smiled and nodded, nodded and smiled, and nodded . . . and put it into a ponytail. The color's good.

I ordered a salad, sandwich and fruit from room service. They brought me three place settings. I ate it all and then passed out for 12 hours.

Encountering Cairo, Pyramids and Out

My first morning in Cairo the hotel tour desk arranged for a taxi to take me to Ramses Station to purchase my ticket on the sleeping car to Luxor and then for a tour of the great pyramids and back to the train. My driver, Achmed, picked me up and we headed for the station. I've taken a few semi-perilous risks in my life (parachuted out of a plane, ridden in a glider, married, parented two teenagers), but nothing could prepare me for the treacherous, insane, life-threatening downtown Cairo traffic.
Lonely Planet Egypt has this to say:

Driving in Cairo can’t in any way be recommended. Lane markings are ignored and brakes are scorned; traffic lights are discretionary. At night some drivers use their headlights exclusively for flashing oncoming vehicles. But Cairo drivers look out for each other and are tolerant of the type of driving that elsewhere might provoke road rage.

Regarding renting a car:

The only reason we expect you might rent a car is to drive directly out of the city.

In addition to automobiles and trucks, the streets are crowded with horse-carts, kids on donkeys, herds of sheep and goats. Even on the freeways. We spent 13 minutes sitting in one place without moving an inch. I did not get out of the car until we arrived in Giza since Lonely Planet advises that the only way to cross a street in Cairo is to position yourself between two locals and use them as buffers. Under no circumstances should a tourist try to cross alone.

After my tour of the pyramids, Achmed dropped me off at Ramses Station where I waited a couple of hours for the train. At the station I met Adam, a young man from Hungary who speaks English and I also met Kulsoon and Misbah, two Muslim ladies (mother and daughter) from London who were staying at the same hotel that I was in Luxor.

I love the sleeping car. It was exactly like the one Toby, Cheryl and I took from Athens to Istanbul. I had a personal porter and was given dinner and breakfast with my passage. I didn't sleep one wink, but I rested and relaxed and utterly enjoyed the experience.

The Less Said

I was talking with the doctor as he was getting ready to give me the third set of shots in my knee.
"You don't need any more injections after these," he said. "Just come back next week for a follow-up."
"I'll come back in three weeks," I replied. "I'm going on vacation."
"Oh, really." Said the doctor. "Where are you going?"
(You and I know I'm going to Egypt and Israel, but considering I'm in Kuwait and the doctor has two very long needles in his hands), I respond, "Uh . . . I'm going to . . . Egypt!"
"Egypt is very nice," says the doctor, "and the weather is not too hot this time of year."
"Are you from Egypt?" I ask.
"Nope. I'm from Syria." (after which he tells me about beautiful Damascus and the lovely apricot trees, etc., etc.)

One of the many times in my life I was happy I kept my mouth shut.

Super Volunteer at the USO

So this Navy guy (Robert) had health issues and missed his training to go to Afghanistan. Now poor Robert's at Camp Virginia waiting and waiting and waiting to get his lesson. Robert was supposed to be held up for a few days but now it's looking like a few weeks. In the meantime, to keep himself busy, occupied and useful, he's been volunteering at the USO. Robert will probably end up putting in 250+ volunteer hours during his transitory time at Camp Virginia. He is kind, gracious, fun, funny and ever so helpful. Robert is so supportive in fact, that he's earned a picture and post on my blog (which will probably tick off some of our other volunteers). Way to go Robert.

Kings of the UTR

Mike and Tony are two Navy MPs stationed at the Provost's Marshall's Office at Camp Buehring. Between the two of them they have twelve (12!) young children. Since Mike and Tony visit Camp Virginia almost daily, they frequently stop by our USO to read and record at least a couple books with United Through Reading. Tony and Mike are two of our biggest advocates. They keep us focused on the importance of the UTR program to our troops and their families.

Three Coins in the Fountain

CSM Anderson*, LTC Papile and MAJ Jones made a special trip to the USO yesterday to present Bettie, Lynn and me with Command Coins. Receiving a coin was one of the highlights of my service here at the USO. I was also given a coin at the Tennessee bar-b-que. Most often it is placed in the officer's palm and then handed over quietly in a hand shake, without anyone's knowledge. When the Colonel from Tennessee gave me their coin I started to cry. (Not a very military-like reaction.)

Coins allow military members to show their pride in their command. Just about every command has its own coin. A coin can be obtained in two different ways: A general coin is available to the public, and can be purchased by anyone. A more specific coin can be earned, usually by more seasoned military members, or by an exemplary act or achievement.

The tradition of command coins began during World War I. A rich lieutenant had coins made of bronze which he gave to everyone in his squadron. Shortly after receiving the token, one of his pilots was captured by the Germans. The pilot had placed his coin in a small pouch around his neck. The Germans removed all of the pilot’s identification to dissuade him from trying to escape. The pilot, however, got away and made it to the front lines. It was here that French soldiers had him pegged for an enemy until he showed them the coin. One of the Frenchmen recognized the squadron that the pilot belonged to, and therefore he was not executed. It became tradition for everyone to wear or keep their command coin on them at all times.

I'm not wearing my coins around my neck, but I'm keeping them to remind me that our efforts are appreciated by the people we most admire.

*CMS Anderson was taking the pictures

Cowboys Riding Into the Sunset

HHC 960th BSB-Wyoming National Guard, the 2/300 and everyone else from Wyoming is RIPing out of Camp Virginia and returning to the US. These are some of the people I'm going to miss the most.

(Top to bottom; left to right: Mehrens, Walker, Hillshafer, Pavich, Lindmier, Archuleta, Peterson, Wayne, Flock, McGuire, Ledoux, Huntress, Nickels, Burdett, Witt, Cassedy, Habel, Papile, Davis, York, Ramirez, Husted, Martinez, Anderson, Smith, Ressler, Jones, Rogers, Klein, Bolden, Rogoff, Gorsuch, McCarty, Pafford, Essey, Jacobs.)